There’s a certain class of restaurant-goer who’s prepared to spend a four-figure sum on a steak. Admittedly, it’s wrapped in gold leaf, but as food critic Jay Rayner points out, gold leaf tastes of nothing (and “all their money has bought them is a bunch of glittering turds”). We can all agree these are “stupidly expensive steaks”.
The idea of paying £36 for a plant-based steak appears similarly stupid, but one journalist sent to an upmarket restaurant to try the product, made by Israeli startup Redefine Meat, wrote that the makers “have achieved something remarkable … What strikes...